Tools and accessories required to perform manual work, can be represented as circuits.
The conditional pattern - so many craftsmen even invented the ring with a knife, and a seam Ripper, and a scale matrix. But a basic understanding of the need and the right figure gives. Now consider the items in detail.
Needles are used to puncture the material and following the threads in the hole of the puncture. Needles vary in diameter (thickness) and length, have the ear of different sizes. Depending on the length and diameter of the needle divided by numbers from No. 1 (for thin delicate fabrics) to No. 12 (for burlap and burlap).
Manual needle should be sharp, flexible, unbreakable, highly polished, with an ear of sufficient dimensions and without burrs.
By the way:
- needle of the same diameter can have different length (the difference is 10 mm). The choice of length depends on the type of work undertaken. For example, long needle can be used to smachivaniya long slices, thereby reducing the number of interceptions. Short needle with the same diameter can be used for serging operations, podseleniya or sewing accessories.
- we must distinguish between hand sewing needles and needles for special purposes, such as embroidery, needle work with beads, darning needle. In addition, some manufacturers make sewing needles by sharpening the tip involving the processing of a particular type of material. Example: round point tip - for knitted fabrics, three-cornered - artificial and genuine leather.
Thimble is designed to protect the finger from the needle by pushing the needle into the fabric. It is worn on the middle finger of the right hand. On the surface of the thimble holes, staggered, which prevent slippage of the needle. The thimble selected accordingly to the thickness of the middle finger so that it is tightly covered finger.
By the way: if it prevents a nail, for example, bill of lading, it will have to be shortened
Thimbles come with bottom and without it. When performing manual work in manufacturing dresses, blouses women's and children's use of the thimble with the bottom, and the pushing of the needle is carried out with a plane bottom. In the manufacture of coats, suits you can use a thimble without bottom and push the needle side.
In the manufacture of products for individual orders with scissors use for cutting tissue, for trimming parts and other manual operations. In mass production, where the process of cutting fabrics and materials mechanized, scissors used mainly for cutting parts or cutting threads. The scissors should be closed without sudden sound; the blades of the scissors should be cut well along its entire length.
By the way:
- tailor scissors with rings of different diameters can be produced for right-handers and left-handers, that is to have the bevel on the arms that make a certain hand;
- when manual cutting is better to use scissors with offset lines closed blades in the direction of the surface of the table. So cut out the material will be less, and will increase the accuracy of the cut;
- to crop a large number of threads is convenient to use a "gadget" consisting of two permanently open the spring-loaded blade without the rings that fit in the palm of your hand. It should be noted, however, that this does not correspond to safety as "...the scissors should be stored with closed ends";
- scissors require regular sharpening. Negligence here is a dangerous tool, so look for a good specialist...
The tape is a soft rubberized tape to put on her centimeter and millimeter divisions, it is applied to the measurements of the human figure and measurement of product parts. Because in the process, ribbon in the sky, it must be systematically checked.
The dummy is used to verify the manufacture of goods in the course of their treatment, and in finished form. On mannequins check, for example, the side and shoulder seams of articles, correct ultimania collar in the neckline and sleeveless armholes, etc. Female and male mannequins release 88, 92, 96, 100, 104, 108, 112, 116 and 120th the size of one of the middle (third) growth and three fittings. Children mannequins release 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88 and 92 sizes. For ease of reference, the mannequin is fixed on the stand so that it can be freely rotated and raised. The height of the dummy regulating screw bearing. There are sliding models, in which the screws are governed by the size and growth in a certain range.
By the way:
- we must distinguish between dressmaker dummies that follow the contours of model shapes of a certain size and growth, and demonstration mannequins, which the developers are trying to pawn your idea of the perfect or trendy body proportions. The first are made of wood or plastic, covered with Jersey. The second can be produced of plastic, glass, metal;
- in the manufacture of corrective or slimming underwear, corsets, graces, used bras mannequins, repetitive strain these products body contours. For fitting coat, coats, jackets mannequins used, the design of which takes into account body shape and the presence of lower layers of clothing. In other words, mannequins are not universal for all types of clothing;
- not all modern mannequins fully meet the state Standards on the model of the figure - this should be considered when buying them.
Peg is used to reposition the corners of the Board, a collar, loops, different shaped joints, as well as for removal of thread. The peg can be made of wood, bone or metal and is a round rod with a length of 100-120 mm, diameter 7 mm, with a very pointed end.
Pins used for chipping parts products from fine fabrics when transferring lines from one side of to the other products, refining positive lines during the fitting. The length of the pins 3-4 cm They should be thin, sharp, well polished. To keep the pins should be in a special cushion.
Cutters come in several types. A dull cutter is used for transferring the contour of the parts from paper to fabric, fabric to paper, as well as for the transfer lines of the folds, recesses, reliefs, etc. are Cutter drive lines, and fabric remains the mark in a solid line.
Gear cutter is used for transferring the contour of the parts from paper to paper or to cardboard, fabric to paper, as well as for the transfer lines, pleats, tucks, pockets.
After the stroke in such a cutter of the planned lines are traces in the form of points located on the contour of the parts. Double cutter used mainly in reproduction patterns.
Rulers, t-squares and French curves in the garment industry, used for making drawings of parts products, as well as when cutting and sewing garments.
Strike a chalk line and marks when cutting and fitting. For the clothing industry produce chalk of different colors. All the lines were thin, the edges of the chalk must be constantly sharpened. Chalk width should be from 0.5 to 1.5 mm.
By the way:
- Sometimes, instead of chalk I use a finely sharpened dry soap. In this case, you should make sure that the soap does not leave indelible traces on the fabric.
- The industry launched production of marker resembling an ordinary pen, crayons and replacement does not require Potocki. Many of the markers give a line that fades after 30-40 minutes after application.