Drawing basics dresses can always be changed in accordance with the selected model. To do this, first we have to draw the line of openings adjacent the jacket, as shown in figure 265 and 266.
Figure 268 shows four line openings And line the openings of the dress; In — line openings of the jacket, adjacent silhouette; a — line armhole straight jacket, which is also the adjacent armhole of a coat, and D — armhole straight coat.
Jacket without lining, replacing the bodice. The drawing of the jacket using the pattern of the dress, extended waist and peplum bottom 1-2 cm (around the circumference) in accordance with the thickness of the fabric (line a).
Jacket of adjoining silhouette. When production patterns need to take into account the thickness of the main fabric (usually used wool and cotton fabrics of medium thickness), the pads and the side pads. Jacket wear the dress of light fabric.
In the drawing at a distance of 0.5 cm from the line of shoulder and side sections, the middle of the back and front draw a new line.
Deepen armhole 3 cm (line In).
Jacket straight cut. The purpose of this jacket is what the jacket is semi-fitted silhouette. To build patterns use patterns of the surrounding jacket, eliminating the Darts at the waist and drawing lines of the side sections in a straight line.
Jacket. The pattern is suitable for products made from thick fabric with lining, padding and a lightweight insulated lining. This jacket also wear the dress.
At a distance of 0.5 cm from the middle of the shoulder sections and at the level of the backrest width of the front and draw a new line. On the chest side openings extend pattern 1.5 cm on both parts of the patterns. From the lines of the side sections at the bottom of the add 1-1,5 cm and connect the resulting points with lines of openings.
Deepen armhole 1.5 cm (line C).
Coat of adjoining silhouette. The pattern is designed for a coat made from thick fabrics lined with padding, worn on the winter dress.
This pattern corresponds to the pattern of the jacket, adjacent silhouette with insulated lining. Use armhole of the jacket is straight cut.
At a distance of 0.5 cm from the middle of the shoulder sections and at the level of the backrest width of the front and draw a new line. On the chest side openings extend pattern 1.5 cm, along the lines of waist and hip from the side slices 1 cm Armhole deepened to 1.5 cm (line C).
Coat straight cut. For such coat used the same pattern as for direct insulation jacket on the gasket.
At a distance of 0.5 cm from the middle of the shoulder sections and at the level of the backrest width of the front and draw a new line. Along the lines of Breasts and hips extend the template by 2.5 cm Armhole deepened by 2 cm (line D).
The coat of fur or fabric, lined with fur (natural or artificial). The extension specified for direct coat, you need to add 1.5-2 cm on each pattern. The middle of the front extend (1 cm instead of 0.5 cm).
Coat and jacket-free. To loose clothes, to cut out in the form of solid parts, well sit on a figure, you need to make the extension in the appropriate places.
Put the mold (see figure 267). Draw lines, parallel lines, and means in the places of expansion (figure 269). Extend, as shown in figure 270 and 271 on the patterns, translated with the auxiliary patterns.
Cut out the pattern, number and cut strips. Put all the items received on another sheet of paper and make the only extension lines extending from the level of the width of the back and the front (5 cm at the hip line).
If the amount of expansion along the lines of the hip is insufficient, it is necessary to make an additional extension from the line width of the back and front (2-3 cm one-tails). After that, it is necessary to correct the line of openings.
For more significant expansion in the size of extensions should be evenly distributed throughout the curve (see figure 271).