The performance of some models is difficult due to the large solution top tuck. Therefore, it is sometimes necessary to decrease the tuck to the detriment of the fit of the product.
Grab a copy of the front base pieces and put the top dart in the armhole line as shown in figure 359 (mortar tuck from A to B).
Reduce by 2-2. 5 cm solution the upper tuck and stroke new tuck. Lift the line of the armhole by 1 cm in order to compensate for the lengthening caused by reducing the solution tuck (see figure 359, solid line). Close the new tuck (the notch C and A) and align the line of openings.
Consider two examples in which the upper tuck is much less.
1. Tuck from the side of the slice. Turn the upper tuck in tuck from the side of the cut and reduce the length of 3-4 cm (figure 360). Close it and align the line side of the slice.
2. Two small Darts from the side of the slice (figure 361). To build these Darts divide its disguise solution original tuck in half, swipe a horizontal line through the point P and on either side of her about take two rows at a distance from one another 2-3 cm long, 6-9 cm Swipe the second line of the Darts in accordance with the received value of their solutions.
For the bodice with cap sleeves, sleeves cut Raglan or kimono swipe dashed lines, as shown in figure 361 (the construction of these sleeves is discussed below).
If any of the model fit is not significant, the top tuck can be translated into the neck and armhole as shown in figure 362.
To do this, move the base of the bodice and draw it on a new line of Darts, one from the neck, the other from the line of openings.
Close the top tuck the foundations, cut and spread it between the new Darts: 1-1,5 cm in the neck, the rest of the size of the armhole. Correct the armhole line, as explained for figure 359. Accordingly, correct the armhole line of the back.