Depending on the shape of the clothing can be direct, adjacent and poluprilegayuschy form. In the last two types of clothes more or less fit is achieved by means of recesses and reliefs.
Figure 81 shows the bodice is straight cut (the dotted line shows the outline of the shape).
Remove the copy of the base templates, correcting, if necessary, the line side of the slice at the level of the hips (see figure 78) in the article the Reduction of the solution tucks on the front panel of the skirt. On the back and front bodice, draw a straight line connecting the lower end of the armhole line of the hips. Dispose the lines of the side cut and the two Darts on the waist line (figure 82). Shoulder back and tuck top tuck leave unchanged.
According to the obtained curve can be cut out blouse and a shift dress.
Building lines the bottom. Shown in figure 81 blouse has a length to the hip line. If desired, the length can be increased without expansion.
To build the bottom line a shorter blouse, it is necessary to copy the base templates to make the necessary hem line parallel to the hip line. For this measure the figure length from the waist line in the middle of the front and transfer it to the mold (рисунок83, short dashed line arrow). Then measure the distance from this point to the hip line, put the value at several points on the curve up to the hips and swipe through the resulting points line the bottom of the product (long dashed lines with arrows).
The bottom line should not be parallel to the line of the waist, so as not in any figure of this line is horizontal.
The construction lines of the side sections. In the drawing, front and back of lower point of armhole drop a perpendicular on the line of the bottom (solid line ). Pick the Darts at the waist and side. This creates excessive width along the lines of waist and hips.
To eliminate excess width from the curve of the back, it is necessary to remove the excess from the side, although the products for some shapes this method causes distortion of the fabric under the shoulder blades. On the front of the bodice is bias more visible than on the back, so it's better to run, as shown in figure 84, or so, as will be described in the translation of the Darts.
The minimum length of the blouse from the waist line 12 see