The first method. Put on a sheet of paper, the base curve of the front bodice and mark a dashed line a tuck at the waist line and the line side of the slice ( figure 77). Reduce the solution Darts at the waist on the value marked by the dashed line in the hip line. On the bodice draw a new line tuck (solid lines ). The skirt guide concave line parallel to the first lines.
Level put hips inside the amount of reduction and, starting from this point, draw a line parallel to the line of the side cut to the waist line. Starting from the waist line, swipe the angled line to cut the openings. If you do not want to emphasize your waist , you can hold the line of the side cut, as shown in figure 78.
The second method. Solution Darts at the waist left same as on the bodice (for a shape with slight fullness in this location, see figure 78).
Starting from the waist line, make a tuck on the skirt more concave. Length tuck skirt should be equal to 12-15 cm Tuck skirt, you can sew to the end or leave destacando, forming a crease.
At the hip line aside from the line side of the slice to the right segment is equal to the amount of reduction of the solution tuck. The resulting point connect a smooth curve with the point of the side cut on the waist line.
The distribution of the solution tucks. All the Darts except for the top, can be divided into two or three less deep. Put on a sheet of paper, the basic pattern front and back. Darts at the waist, do not translate, indicate only the amount of their solutions.
Two little tucks on the bodice instead of one create a good breast shape (figure 79). When the distribution value of the solution tucks at the waist line of the bodice, as a rule, is based on the average value of the solution. At the hip line subtract the amount of reduction, and correct the line side of the slice, as explained above. Mark the middle of each tuck and continue these lines up parallel to the lines of the middle of the front and back. On the bodice note the length of the Darts on the back —1-2 cm below the chest line, front — 10-12 see
The bodice instead of Darts, you can make soft folds (figure 80). This pattern can be used for garments as cutting and not cutting at the waist.