If the skirt is a continuation of the bodice that make it very tight at the waist. Since the construction of basic patterns to measure waist girth was added (3 cm allowance for the free fit), the same number necessary to reduce the width of the front panel to the waist line.
Toggle the drawing of the front cloth skirts (see figure 65) on a sheet of paper, without specifying Darts. The first tuck can be placed on the first line of the main Darts. Trace three lines parallel to the line of mid front cloth (front), leaving between them the same intervals, as shown in figure 67. These lines represent the middle of the Darts.
On the first two lines move two Darts with figure 65, and then draw a third, additional, tuck depth 1.5 cm (1.5 cm for left and right side skirts only 3 cm ). With this arrangement, the first line of the main Darts can be arbitrary, as in this case, the skirt is not connected with the bodice.
Straight skirt with banded waist. Before you can tailor the belt, it is necessary to know its width. Note here that inside the belt should pave grosgrain ribbon. Vykroyte strip of fabric with the width equal to two widths of grosgrain ribbon plus 3 cm for seams. If you carve out a zone along the edge of the fabric, please note only one seam, because the edges can be hemmed, not turning. Measure the length of the waist line on the skirt pattern without taking into account the solution of the Darts. Increase the length by half and add 6-7 inches for the zipper and seams of the belt.
Straight skirt with single belt. Figure 68 shows the skirt, cut the entire belt. Two small arrows show the actual position of the waist line. Hard grosgrain ribbon in the side of the back support the skirt at waist level.
Reproduce a drawing of the back (see figure 65) and the front (see figure 67) of panels of the skirt. Follow the lower middle of the rear cloth 2 cm from the upper edge (figure 69). To obtain a smooth curved line you need to close Darts. Parallel to the waist line (see the dashed lines) draw a solid line at a distance equal to the width of the belt corresponding to the width of the grosgrain ribbon. Guide line of the Darts and the side sections to the intersection with a line width of the belt parallel to the mid panels.
When stitching Darts will continue to line up in accordance with the pattern. Thus, the part of the skirt is located above the waist will be smooth and straight strips.
Prepare basic skirt pattern. Move the drawings of the front and rear panels of the skirt (full length) on one sheet of paper. Colored pencil swipe on the pattern front cloth three small Darts (see figure 67). Place them so that they do not overlap tuck basic patterns, the Darts in the skirt of the dress circle, for example, a black pencil, and tuck a separate skirt — green.
If the separate skirt is required in lowering the waist line on the rear panel, mark is a dashed line, as shown in figure 70. This is a pattern with the inscription "Foundation skirt" store, together with the base curve.