The history of embroidery silk ribbons

The history of embroidery tape begins with ancient times. Its progenitor can be considered a rope from plant fibers, which gradually turned into a braid and then to tape.

Even in prehistoric times, humans have adorned hairstyles variegated narrow stripes of fabric and leather, which created distinctive patterns. Gradually the art of sewing has developed, began to use not only different types of yarn: wool, linen, silk, hemp, cotton, but also of precious stones, pearls, coins, pearl shells, beads, beads, sequins. The most ancient embroidery, extant, dated V-IV centuries BC They are made in Chinese handy. These products are embroidered with gold and silver threads, silk, hair of silk fabric. In China, embroidery was used to decorate clothing, carpets, paintings. Often depicted flowers and birds. In Japan, Iran, Ancient India embroidered genre scenes, animal figures and floral motifs.

In Ancient Rome and Ancient Greek women decorated their hair with ribbons and strips of fabric. Greek women in hair weave embroidered strips of fabric Roman women and their hair decorated with ribbons, embroidered with precious stones and gold. Clothes trimmed with ribbons. Moreover, certain materials and colors of the ribbons, it was possible to identify the social status of the person. In Ancient Egypt also embroidered clothes. To have survived beautifully embroidered robes of the pharaohs. The Assyrians and the Jews borrowed the art of embroidery of the ancient Egyptians. In the Middle ages the Byzantine craftswomen original way embroidered with silk and gold special ornaments. From Byzantium, this craft spread to other European countries. For example, in England began to embroider with silk, gold and silver luxurious floral designs. At the same time in Italy steel ribbons to decorate the canopy and the backs of chairs, tie them with heavy curtains that covered the Windows in winter to protect from wind and cold.

In Ancient Greece there was a legend about the mistress Arachne who challenged the goddess of war and wisdom Athena. For this, the goddess turned into a spider seamstress.

In the XIV century began extensive use of silk ribbons. In Lyon, a French city, became fairly quickly to develop the production of silk yarn and fabrics. The noble Lord began to wear beautiful clothes, embroidered brocade ribbons or ribbons with gold border, to correspond with the rank and origin of the bore.

By order of the future king Louis XI in 1446г. was brought different machines for the manufacture of silk, and he was to produce tapes and invited Italian masters to teach the local weavers his skills. But it didn't work out.

A little later started the fashion for coats and jackets, adorned with gold and brocade ribbons. Therefore, the demand for this product continued to grow. Lyon gradually became a major textile center. In 1560 it already worked 50 000 artisans who produced various ribbon: brocade, gold, silk, satin. The neighbouring towns of Saint-étienne and Velzi worked about 45,000 weavers, producing the braid. 100 years later, in 1660, Saint-étienne and the surrounding area over 80 000 machines were developed and produced tape 370 posmertnye products (lace, braid, trimmings). At the court of Louis XIV all toilet articles (trousers, shoes) were decorated with ribbons, embroidered with precious stones and pearls. The king called all his courtiers to dress nice and classy. Louis XV, following the French monarch, enjoyed not only clothes decorated with ribbons, but he loved to embroider ribbons and donated their products to the courtiers. During this period in Vogue voluminous dresses with flying silhouettes, pleats and lots of ribbons. Noble ladies began to decorate their dresses with ribbons; first sewed the corsages many roses, and other flowers with delicate leaves. The explanation was complemented by pearls and crystals. Then steel and linen to decorate with ribbons. It became more elegant and luxurious. There was a special Atelier - suppliers of the Royal court, the master of which with the help of silk ribbons and needles created true works of art. Now their products can be seen in various museums around the world. Gradually, embroidery silk ribbons spread around the world, beginning with England. In the XVII-XVIII centuries, ribbons were decorated not only women's clothes but also clothes for men. Even the vestments of the priests were decorated with ribbons.

In one of the world's largest museums of decorative art and design the Victoria and albert in London has a men's costume that is adorned with 250 yards of silk ribbons.

Gradually, the passion for this craft grew, and in the nineteenth century became popular among almost all segments of the population. In one of the leading regions in industrial production - the city of Basel, the number of machines, manufactured tapes, increased from 1225 in 1775 to 7631 in 1870

The Englishman Charles Frederick worth, founder of fashion House of the Rue de Le Paix, joined the English technique of embroidery with a French twist. It was not just to decorate the clothing strips, sewing them on top, and embroider on clothing a variety of motives braid and silk ribbons. Dresses with embroidered patterns intended for women of high status in society. In addition he was the founder of the fashion for the decoration of the embroidery of different accessories. Gloves, shoes, fans, underwear trimmed with embroidery of braid and ribbons. Gradually England and its colonies, British and new Zealand, seized the initiative. The best needlewomen in the time it was considered the new Zealand masters. Queen Victoria in the nineteenth century they were instructed to decorate their clothes. In Australia, this craft spread to more than embroidery threads, as in this country there is a large tax on fibers and yarns from Japan and on tape no tax.

In our country, ribbons were used for decorating since ancient times. In ancient times the bride that has sasatani, put on the head wreath with ribbons, which is called beauty. Other antique hat for girls - ribbon - decorated with colored ribbons with beads and gold threads. In the Rzhev district of the women and girls wore the ochipok - the headpiece is stitched with ribbons and embroidered gold thread. Bottom of festive shirts were decorated with two strips of red silk ribbons. Other shirts trimmed with colorful ribbons. The hem of the sundress was adorned with ribbons and openwork stitching. In the center of the sundress was sewn vertical strip of silk or cotton ribbons. Embroidered ribbon is often used instead of belts in festive attire.

Clothes don Cossacks in XVII-XVIII centuries was decorated with embroidery of gold and silver, silk threads and different ribbons. Shirts were decorated with embroidery and ribbons at the bottom hem and sleeves. Top, swing dress, Kubelik embroidered ribbons and pearls. Ribbons adorned even shoes, Chiriqui.

Gradually, under the influence of Baroque and Rococo in Russia is becoming popular embroidery silk ribbons of various floral patterns. Ribbons decorated the clothing, dragging sleeves and forming bouquets of flowers.

In the 1870s embroidery silk ribbons are most widely used. Ribbons decorated the skirts, bodices, sleeves, collars, cuffs, dresses, gloves, muffs, shawls. In addition, volume was embroidered quilts, lamp shades, umbrellas and various household items. And became fashionable various overhead finish of the embellishments: silk ribbons, curly sequins, three-dimensional appliqués of colored gas with chenille. Could be combined with various kinds of embroideries, such as the application of silk ribbons combined with colorful surface.

In XX century the interest in this form of needlework has decreased as well as the other types. But at the end of the last century embroidery, silk ribbons began to appear again and are currently experiencing a rebirth.

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