The cuffs of the sleeves
The cuffs of the sleeves can be cap and cutting (combined).
Cap lapel of a straight strip, is bent upward (figure 287), it is convenient and easy to perform.
A stitched lapel can be of any shape (figure 288 advanced lapel). A stitched lapel is used in cases when the cap is unacceptable (bottom sleeve is a curved line, sleeves and cuffs made of different fabrics or the same fabric but cut in different directions of the thread).
The cap sleeve straight lapel (figure 289). Turn the mold sleeve corresponding to the model (for example, take the short sleeve shown in figure 174, and extend it to 3 cm).
Select the width of the lapel and specify a line parallel to the bottom of the sleeves (see picture 289, line 1).
Draw a second line parallel to first at the same distance from it, to mark the second side of the lapel ( line 2), then a third parallel line at a distance slightly less than the distance between lines 1 and 2 ( lines I 3 ).
Cut out the pattern , leaving around small La, then fold the lapel, as shown in figure 287. Draw the sections of each part of the lapel in accordance with the front and rear sections of the sleeve. Stripes 2 and 3 (see figure 289) can be cut out separately from the sleeve self-pattern.
Shift from in on double seam mouth of the sleeve (figure 290). This lapel is used in all the sleeves, cut to the shape of the hand.
Slide the pattern sleeve of the corresponding model (for example, take a narrow sleeve length three quarters). Lines parallel to the bottom guide line of the lapel at a distance equal to the width of the lapel.
Bend the inner part of the fold up hem sleeves and put on her lines front and rear sections of the sleeve and the line of Darts and elbow joints, increasing their slope by 0.1 - 0.2 see the Outer part of the lapel with the ACC's better to carve out separately, since the sleeve has a sloping direction. For this purpose the inner part of the lapel, located on both sides darting at elbow seam, place on another sheet of paper and add on top of the desired width on the bending Side sections of the line and darting at the ACC move with sleeves.
The width of bending is selected depending on the model, fabric and method of processing.
If you do not want to have the seam on the front of the lapel, it is necessary, from the elbow to hold the line of the front and rear sections of the sleeve at right angles to the bottom line and keep them at the width of the lapel (figure 291). Then increase the solution tuck the magnitude of the expansion sleeve (dashed line).
Now the outer part of the lapel can be drawn in the form of a solid strip, aligning the notch x's and o's.
Detachable lapel extended form. This lapel cut out on curved line separately from the sleeve (figure 292 ).
Measure the length hem sleeves and draw a strip width of 6 cm, appropriate length. Divide it into vertical strips of width 4 cm and cut them. Put the strips on a sheet of paper, spread them on one side one from the other by 0.5 cm and add half this quantity to each end.
The shape of the ends of the lapel is selected according to the (figure 293).