Put on a sheet of paper the basis of the front and back. Top tuck in the neckline (figure 284).
Close and secure the tuck. Place the pattern on the figure, mark the yoke line and mark the starting point of the line of the Raglan. Then put the front and the back next, equating the bottom of the armhole and put the notch 1 on the same level (for example place the notch 5 cm above the breast line).
On the front and the back, draw a vertical dashed line, tangent to the lines of openings. The points of tangency of lines c lines of the openings mark the lines and numbers 2. In this example, on the front of nadechka 2 coincides with nadrezkoj 1. Along the lines of the yoke at a distance of 3 cm from nasechek 1 set the notch 3. It is desirable that the line of the Raglan of the back were much below the notch 2.
Yoke front and back (of the front and back, enclosed between lines of the shoulder sections and Raglan) put on another sheet of paper, indicating all the notch and closing the shoulder dart of the back.
When translating a drawing front and back on the fabric and draw the yoke, so when cutting to the front and the back of the line of the shoulder cut. This will greatly facilitate the fitting of the product and sleeves. After fitting the yoke cut to reduce the thickness of the parts.
The Raglan sleeve fit on the line of the top part of the sleeve is replaced by a dart, located in the continuation of the shoulder seam.
Put on a sheet of paper based sleeves, leaving the top part has enough space to build a yoke (figure 285).
Top of the line direction common thread (between nasecki V) set the value of the solution tucks. In the circumference of the hand at the armholes, equal to 31 cm and more, solution tuck is 4 cm in the circumference of the hand at least 31 cm from 4 cm to subtract 0.2 cm for every inch. The minimum depth of the tuck is 2.6 cm (for example: if the circumference of the hand at the armholes is 30 cm, solution tuck is 3.8 cm, circumference 29 cm — 3.6 cm, with circumference 28 cm — 3.4 cm, etc.).
The tuck end (nadechka A) position 10 cm below the top of the crown and slide the concave tuck line. Continue both lines of Darts, as shown in figure 285, and mark the notch With the distance from nasechek In equal to half of the solution tucks minus 0.2 cm (for example: 1,8-0,2=1,6 cm).
Fold the paper in an equity line, compare both lines of the tucks and correct them if necessary. They must have the same curvature and length of nasechek S.
For connection yoke sleeve the yoke of the back place the line of openings on nadziejko C. Then rotate the yoke until until her nadechka 2 will not apply to the crown sleeve. Circle the yoke in this position (dashed line). Do the same with a yoke front. If the sleeve crown and armhole yoke go at each other by more than 0.5 cm, move nadziejko 2 from the top part of the sleeve to maintain the desired width of the parts.
The notch 3 at the yoke front and back connect with soft curves from the top part of the sleeve.
Measure the distance between nasecki 3 and 1 (see figure 284), remove it from the notch 3 at the held of the curve line and put nadziejko 4 ( cm . figure 285).
Measure the bodice length of the remaining line openings (between nasecki 1. see figure 284). Measure the sleeve line of the crown of the lateral sections of the sleeve to nasechek 4 on either side (see figure 285) and compare these measurements. The length of the top part of the sleeve should be slightly larger (for example: the length of the openings of 16.5, okata — 17.3 cm). Excess spread equally between the front and rear sections of the sleeve, as shown by the dashed lines.
A tuck from the top part of the sleeve most often continue in a relief to the bottom of the sleeves.
In the narrow sleeve with tuck, the form of this relief must comply with form hands. On top of the notch And up to the elbow, it passes in the direction of the grain lines, and then to a point at the bottom of the sleeve, located at a distance of 1/4 of the total width of the bottom of the sleeves, starting from the first line tuck in the elbow joint (wavy line with two arrows).
The resulting pattern can have 4 options : 1) consist of one piece with shoulder tuck and tuck in the elbow joint; 2) in two parts, United by topography, passing through nadziejko And; 3) of three parts, United by the relief and the elbow joint; 4) in two parts, United along the line of the elbow seam, with shoulder tuck.
If you need to make a bulge at the shoulder line to shoulder pads, there is need to identify it, as shown by the dashed lines drawn at a distance of 0.5 cm from the solid lines at the level of the top part of the sleeve (figure 286, see the two arrows).