Kimono without gussets. Such a construction is used only in cases where a good fit of the clothes does not really matter: models of mass tailoring, underwear and also extravagant models.
To perform curves such models, there is no need to have the base kimono. It is sufficient to find the balance lines of the upper and lower sections of the sleeve, guided by the principles of drawing kimono.
In the drawing the short sleeves down from the armhole line set-in sleeves, set aside a segment of length 5 cm and place nadziejko x (figure 518). From this notch, continue the line of the side cut with a slight bend to nadechka About, which is at a distance of 2.5 cm up and to the left from the notch H. the Side sections of the bodice should sew up to the notch O. the notch up draw a line to the bottom of the sleeve.
Figure 518 shows two examples of correction lines, the upper edge of the sleeve. Use the option that is best suited to your model.
In the drawing the long sleeves is no definite rule. The drawing change according to the features of the model, guided by the examples given above. The slope of the line of the upper edge of the sleeve also depends on the model.
When cutting clothes shirt kimono of narrow fabrics required to make the following changes in the drawing. Turn the entire surface of the sleeve, halfway between nasecki D and C1 (figure 519, dashed lines). On the pattern draw a line the boundaries of the width of the fabric.
Move the surface of the sleeve bounded by the dashed lines, without changing the position of the notch D, as long as the sleeve will not fit on the desired width. Draw lines sleeves (solid line).
Align the line of the upper edge of the sleeve from the notch D, reducing the curvature, so far as the sleeve width. Continue the incision line from the notch C1, flexing it as shown in the figure (nadechka S2).
The gusset respectively to correct the drawing. The line of gussets between the points A and b don't need to change.
Kimono fantasy. The so-called model, is developed based on a kimono. The most characteristic models can be grouped as follows.
1. The main part of the bodice is one with sleeves that are joined to the bodice at the armscye curve (figure 520).
2. Line openings is removed from its normal position.
3. Sleeve Raglan with a large yoke.
In the drawing, is shown in figure 520, take the drawing of the front adjacent kimono by limiting the 3/4 length sleeves, Transfer it sleeve basics from the notch E (figure 521) to the notch and draw a line cut in a straight line without curvature at the notch A.
The neckline guide completely, so you can accurately translate tuck using transparent paper. In this way, you should prepare all the basics of kimono.
Draw a line of elevation from point P to the shoulder to the notch 1.
On another sheet of paper reproduce both parts of the patterns, translating top tuck in relief.
Each of the parts of the patterns (figure 522, 523) add 1/4 gussets (hatched part) and draw a line from notch 1 to notch 2, as shown in figure 523.
Take the template, shown in figure 523, place it on the mold bases kimono and turn to it starting from the notch And the line of openings (see figure 524, the notch 3). On the patterns measure the distance between nasecki 2 and 3 and transfer it to the sleeve from the notch 2 to nadechka 3 (figure 525). Nadziejko 1 connect nadrezkoj 3 curve line. This is the lower part of the armholes set-in sleeves.
When creating drawings kimono fantasy use the basis of the kimono.
Toggle the drawing of the front surrounding a kimono on a sheet of paper, moving in his line of openings (see figure 526). Wide kimono sleeves can be changed by changing the position of the notch Through nadziejko A. And forehand should be the line of openings kimono fantasy.
To draft a sleeve, it is necessary to translate the armhole on transparent paper. Fold the paper at the dashed lines shown in figure 527, i.e. the bend should pass through the point of intersection of the line side of the cut line of the cut sleeve and touch the line of openings.
Transfer the line of openings for the second half of the paper and mark its exact length nadrezkoj D.
After moving the notch D (see figure 526). a distance equal to the distance between nasecki 1 and draw a line On lower edge of sleeves in the form of a smooth curved line.
Drawing back perform a copy of the drawing attached kimono, as the drawing front.
Put it next to the drawings of the back and front, combining lines of the side sections and the positioning points In the same level, and correct if necessary, the line of the armhole of the back, to fit exactly into the line of the armhole of the front (figure 528).
From the notch From the back of the line of the cut sleeve to the left put a segment of length equal to the distance between nasecki C and D on the drawing front. Put nadziejko D in the drawing of the back.