Do not start the trail skirts a little too low and accurately calculate its width. Too wide trail straight skirt often while walking causes vzdelavanie of the skirt.
Figure 468 shows the profile of the skirt with a train in the classical style. The dashed line denoting the side seam allows you to compare the slope of the lines front and back.
For cutting such skirts, you can use two ways: cutting of the individual wedges (cut-off for waist or agreed with the topography of the bodice); cut "the sun" (seam at the waist is inevitable).
Skirt from the individual wedges. To determine the exact width of the skirt with a train you need to have at least one fitting skirt made of cotton fabric or fine heavy paper. This skirt can make any clarification.
To get the slope of the skirts, the rear more than the front, you need to give it a greater width. The fitting skirt it is necessary to make wide enough.
Limit ourselves to four wedges in front and six rear (figure 469) of the ten widths of fabric.
Suppose that the width of the front bodice at the waist is 44 cm, then the wedge needs to have a width of 11 cm, as the front will be four wedge between nasecki from b to C (two front wedge half skirts).
Suppose that the width of the back of the skirt at the waist is 36 cm, then the width of each of the six wedges is 6 cm (between nasecki and three rear wedge). Bottom line, marking the length of the front wedge all wedges are the same width (dashed line).
The minimum loop length — 20-30 cm For the model shown in figure 468, to the length of skirt, measured to the floor, add 50 cm This is the length of the train.
Follow the drawings to wedge the back of the skirt and one of the wedge front. On a large sheet of paper move three times consecutively wedge the back of the skirt and twice the wedge front.
Run the drawing loop, as shown in figure 469. Then cut the wedges. Each of the wedges, transfer on the fabric two times. Equity the thread of the fabric should be held in the middle of the wedge. Connect all the wedges. The clasp is better to make the middle back of the skirt. The cut of the waist sew a narrow belt of the same fabric.
Skirts, similar to those considered above, should be worn with the lower skirts, the width of which depends on the width of the skirt.
For the skirt flared lower skirt cut on the basic patterns, making the seams a little wider. If the skirt has an excessive width, the width of the petticoat should be smaller in order not to form additional extension.
Skirt cut the sun. These skirts are best to sew from light, thin fabrics. Determine the required size of the expansion skirt.
Figure 470 shows the drawing of the skirt, consisting of a single semicircle is half the circumference of the waist. Line plume held oval. Figure 471 shows the same drawing, but with a reduced width in the front without changing the width of the skirt at the waist. In figure 472, the curve of the front is a quarter circle, as shown in figure 470, and the rear part of the skirt is a half circle.
The mold is performed first to make the skirt floor-length and then add the required size ( length of loop).
