Not paying attention to the ends of the line of the top part of the sleeve (notch 1), spread on a line And the width of the sleeve (35 cm) equally on each side of the line (notch 2). Parallel to the line And draw a line to the bottom of the sleeve, which is located in a classic short sleeve 5 cm below the lowest point of the top part.
Point 2 drop perpendiculars to the intersection with the bottom line, determining the width of the sleeve. Aside from the points to the right and to the left by 1 cm and connect the new points with 2 points. At the intersection of these lines with the line okata dot 3. The seam allowance at the bottom of the sleeve is 4 cm ( for example, 29 +4 =33 cm ).
The rest of the build drawing, as shown in figure 174.
To build the top part of the sleeve front cut out pattern, leaving a minimum around the field. If you wish to save the template, do this work on the copy. Fold the sleeve, as shown in figure 174, i.e., place the line in the back of the sleeve on the line common thread, then do the same thing with the front line of the sleeve. Between natsukoi 1 front and 3 nadrezkoj the back of the sleeve, draw the missing part of the top part of the sleeve, which sometimes fits exactly to the previous nodes 1 and 3, but sometimes you need to slightly tweak the crown to get a smooth curved line (figure 174, the dashed lines show the initial position of the ends of the sleeves).
If you line the bottom of the sleeve is slightly raised at the closed sleeve, then corrections are required. Enough to wear sleeve by hand to be sure.
To lengthen or shorten the sleeve, measure the desired length of the sleeve on the arm and move it to the line common thread from the top of the sleeve. Draw the bottom line parallel to the line of classic length.
Tight short sleeve. This sleeve restricts the movement of the hand. You can see this during the fitting bodice with metonymy sleeves. The freedom of movement of the hand can be obtained by stretching a fabric or expanding the sleeve.
Put on a sheet of paper the drawing is classic short sleeves (see figure 174) and transfer it the line of the elbow from the base of the sleeve (figure 175). Make a tuck with a solution equal to 2 cm, hem of sleeve. Short sleeve slim hem 2 cm, and a short narrow sleeve — still 2 cm.
Close received a tuck (figure 176). Line the bottom of the sleeves has a curved shape, so it is best to handle podkralas the facing or pulling a cut of iron. Clothes less elegant, you can draw a straight line of the bottom, as shown in figure 176 (dashed line).
In order to make narrower the sleeve, it is necessary to deepen the tuck at the back half of the sleeves or make a second tuck flap to the ulnar side of the slice.
Very short tight sleeve. This sleeve has minimal extension below, without prejudice to its comfort while wearing due to its small length.
Put on a sheet of paper a short sleeve and draw a horizontal line connecting both ends of the crown (figure 177). This horizontal line bounding the top part of the sleeve indicates the depth of the armhole.
Draw two vertical lines at a distance of 1.5 cm from the ends of the crown, as shown in figure 177 (short dashed lines). Sleeve has 3 cm (the constant value used for all similar sleeves).
Change the line of the crown, to shrink the sleeve. When the rectified line lifts the shoulders, and the more reduced its length (figure 178).
If to straighten the convexity of the crown without prior reduction of the width of the sleeve, the sleeve will expand. In this example, the ends of the crown lifted by 2 cm (see figure 178, numbers in squares). Received the endpoints of the lifts connect with a smooth curve line with a crown foundations of the sleeve (2 cm below natsack).
Fine horizontal dashed line at 3 cm below the ends of the line of the top part.
The lines of the side sections of the sleeve angle in the 0.5 cm line of the bottom guide sleeve in the form of a smooth curve having a center deflection equal to 2.5 cm.
The control notch on the sleeve is not necessary, since the sleeve in the armhole stachivaya without landing or with a slight rise. Obtachku for handling sleeves on the bottom cut out in the shape of the bottom of the sleeves.
Reducing the line length of the crown, caused by the maximum contraction of the sleeve at the bottom, leads to a corresponding decrease in the openings of the product. In this case it is convenient to use a armhole that applies to a sleeveless bodice.