Welt pockets in the frame, the leaflets and cuff can be positioned horizontally, vertically or obliquely. Draw a line clearance pocket (figure 179) on a sheet of paper and transfer them to the pattern (the hatched area in figure 180, for example, 12X2,5 cm).
The magnitude of the cut of the pocket is determined by the width of a hand. Pockets on the bodice, performs a decorative role, have a width of 8-10 cm, pockets coat is 12-15 cm.
The line of the pocket serves as a reference during the fitting, and it can be moved to any place.
To determine the location of the leaves cut a strip of the main fabric.
On the curve, draw also burlap, as shown in figure 180; keep the top line leaves to both sides 2 cm Using the point guide, lines parallel to the middle of the front. If you need to increase the volume of the pocket, the line is located closer to the middle of the front must be convex.
The depth of burlap measured from the lower line of the cut of the pocket and is 8-10 cm for blouses, 10 to 12 cm for the skirt, 15-20 cm for a coat. First, swipe the edges of the burlap, and then zakruglenie corners.
When machining pockets with a single cut leaflets distinguish its upper and lower parts (figure 181). The leaf or lapel shape cut out of fabric, folded in half.
For pockets in the frame, the facing must be cut on grain lines with length equal to the grub pocket plus 6 cm, and a width of approximately 15 cm.
Burlap pocket consists of two identical parts (top and bottom), it cut out from fabric
The valance is needed in order to when opening the pocket lining was not visible. The valance cut out the common thread of the same fabric as the product. Its width is 8-10 cm (figure 181, b).
There are different ways of handling the Welt pockets. Protozoa are pockets with leaflets. After the purchase of a small sewing skills would be easy to make a pocket of any kind.
A pocket, shown in figure 181, a, used for pants and skirts made from light fabrics. The pattern leaves a double-width cut out along with the top of the burlap pocket. The bottom part of the burlap (without valance) cut out of a fabric product in accordance with the drawing.
The leaf of the pocket, shown in figure 181, b, cut out from separate fabric products common thread. The bottom and top of the burlap cut out of lining fabric, and the bottom part is shorter than the top width of the valance. The valance cut out the correct width of main fabric.
Processing, shown in figure 181, is used in the manufacture any pockets. Double thickness (the valance, stitched into the lining) provides strength and elasticity, protects the edge of the pocket from strain.
For a pocket with a vertical or sloping cut burlap must also comply with the length and width of a hand.
Draw the line leaves the pocket according to the model (figure 182). From the line AB mark horizontally the width of the burlap, equal to half the circumference of wrist plus 2-3 cm. the level of the width of the burlap and draw a vertical line. The line should continue up, if burlap will be rounded on the belt. Otherwise zakruglenie its ends above the edge leaves 2-3 cm, as shown in figure 182.
The value of VS (depth of pocket) should be deferred from the lowest point of the leaves. Pocket with vertical or inclined cutting the leaf it is impossible to make with burlap.
Cut out the valance of the main fabric (dashed line limits the valance), it is necessary to equalize with the outer edge of the burlap and you can configure it, as shown in figure 181, V.
The upper part of the cut out burlap as the bottom, then cut out the part bounded by the leaf surface (see figure 182). AV — line primaqiune leaves