Lesson 29. Building patterns-the foundations of a jacket with sewn in sleeve

Pattern-based wraps the figure from the base of the neck to the hips. In this pattern, there is no incision, no front or rear. The neck passes through the base of the neck. If you tie this pattern model, it will cover the figure without folds and creases. Is pattern-based half of the figure. After that she applied the contoured lines outline the clasp and make allowances. This pattern is made the pattern. Calculate the density of knitting. When building the pattern the thickness of the working thread.

If it is too elastic, make the seam allowance smaller.

If the thing is put on through the head, before patterns produce completely.

To correctly associate the product and learn how to build drawings of patterns of clothes all sizes and styles, it is necessary to position the drawing point of the neck lines, waist, chest, hips and length of the product. The principle of construction drawings, all sizes is the same, the only difference in digits (by increasing the pattern size increases the width of half of product 2 cm). Measurements of length and height are recorded at full size, and measurements of the circumference and width of the divide by 2 part.




1 BUILD a PATTERN-base WITH SEWN-in SLEEVE (size 30)

Measurements needed for the drawing:
back length to waist 26 cm;
total product length at the back 38 cm;
shoulder length 9 cm;
the semicircle of the neck 13.5 cm;
the semicircle of the chest 30 cm;
sleeve length 36 cm;
sleeve width at the wrist 18 cm.
sleeve width at chest height 25 cm

Lesson 29. Building patterns-the foundations of a jacket with sewn in sleeve
Figure 413.




Construction drawing
The width of the shirt: draw a rectangle, ABDS (figure 413). AB and DS = 38 see, ABDS=30+8=38(cm);
the depth of the armhole AH (1/3 semicircle of breast measure plus 6 cm for loose fit); AG=30:3+6=16(cm);
the waist line from point A to T down to the measure (length of back to waist); at=26 cm;
lenght on back AD=38 (cm);
back width of the EXHAUST gas (1/3 of the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm); OG=30 is:3+4=14(cm);
the width of the openings OP (1/4 of the semicircle of the breast plus 2 cm): OP=30:4+2=9.5 (inch);
lift the shelves from b and B-delayed 2 cm and put the points L and J.

Construction drawing of the back
Neck, from point A right delayed 5 cm (1/3 semicircle of the neck measure plus 0.5 cm) and put the point N. From point N upwards, perpendicular to the measured period of 1.5 cm and put the point H1. Point H1 and A connecting concave curve of the neck;
line side: from a point On the right-delayed 3 cm and put the point F. From point f draw a perpendicular line down to the intersection with DS. At the intersection of the set K;
the auxiliary lines of the shoulder and the armhole from point O up draw a line to the intersection with AB. At the intersection of the set point M. OM - line openings. Cut TH divide into 4 equal parts. From the point M lay off 1.5 cm and set point, R is the slope of the shoulder. From the point D1 through the point R hold a segment size of 9 cm and put the point U - shoulder length. Constructing the bisector of the angle OIF from a point On, put it 2.5 cm and set point, [Via point y, And f construct an arc forming the armhole of the back.

Construction drawing of the front
Neck, from point L down-delayed 5.5 cm (1/3 semicircle of the neck measure plus 1 cm) and put in L1. 13,5:3+1=5,5 (cm). From point L to the left delay 5 cm (1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm) and put L2. 13,5:3+0,5=5 (cm). Points L1 and L2 being joined by concave line.
The slope of the shoulder from point B down-delayed 3 cm and put a point E;
shoulder line from point L2 to point e, lay off the length of the shoulder line tilt 9 cm and put the point E1;
the line of openings: cut PB divide into 3 parts. From a point P on the bisector of the angle delay of 3 cm and put the point P1. The line of openings hold from E1 via the touch point through the point P1 to the point sh

Construction drawing sleeves
Sleeve length: traceable rectangle ABCD. HELL equals the length of the sleeves measure 36 see AV - sleeve width-to-measure 30 cm;
the line of descent of the crown of the sleeve, from point A down-delayed 11 cm and put the point P (line of descent). The value of the line of descent is equal to 3/4 the depth of the openings minus 1, see (16:4x3)-1 =11 (cm). From the point P to the right hold a straight line to the intersection with the line of the sun and set point, M;

Lesson 29. Building patterns-the foundations of a jacket with sewn in sleeve
Figure 414. Drawing set-in sleeves



line of lifts the shoulders: the line AB is divided by 4 parts. The middle denotes the point O. the Point on the left denoted by the point K. the Point on the right denotes the point Of all the points we draw lines down to the intersection with the straight line DS. Points O and P, and M are connected by a dotted line. The point of intersection denoted by the points N and p Segments of the HE, NP, OP and RM divide in half. From the midpoint PN delay down 1 cm (L1). From the middle BUT up 1.5 cm (D1). From the middle of the OP up - 1.5 cm (R1). From mid-RM down - 1.5 cm (M1). Line of lifts the sleeve passes through the points P, W, N, N1, O, P1, R, M1, M;
line the bottom of the sleeve: it is equal to the circumference of the wrist. Wrist circumference of 18 cm From the point W to the left and right delay for 9 cm and set the dots D1, C1. 18:2=9 (cm). Point D1 and point C1 connected - receive line of the bottom sleeve.


2. BUILDING PATTERNS-the BASICS the SLEEVES are "RAGLAN" (size 30)

Measurements in the drawing:
back length to waist 26 cm;
product length 38 cm;
the length of the line of the Raglan 20 cm;
the semicircle of the neck 13.5 cm;
the semicircle of the chest 30 cm;
sleeve length 36 cm;
sleeve width at the wrist 18 cm.
sleeve width at chest height 25 cm

Lesson 29. Building patterns-the foundations of a jacket with sewn in sleeve
Figure 415. Build back and front with Raglan sleeve




Construction drawing

Building patterns-foundations of drawing with a sleeve "a Raglan" is built exactly the same as the pattern vetochnogo sleeves. With the exception of the armscye curve (see "Build a pattern-base with sewn-in sleeve").

Builds the lines of the Raglan of the back and front

From the point f to the right delay of 2.5 cm and joined the line of Raglan with the point P. delay Left 2 cm and join the line of Raglan with the point O. All the other construction lines remain unchanged.

Construction drawing sleeves
Sleeve length: traceable rectangle ABCD. HELL equals the length of the sleeves measure 36 see AB - width sleeves measure 30 cm;
the depth of the openings is equal to AP (1/3 semicircle of breast measure plus 6 cm for loose fit. AG=30:3+6=1B;
line Raglan: from point P-delayed 2.5 cm and set point sh point About left and right delay 3 cm and put the point To and G. From point G up delay of 2.5 cm and put the point P. the Point P, and connected To the concave curve. From the point M to the left-delayed 2 cm and put the point M1. Point P and M1 connected. Line the bottom of the sleeve is equal to the circumference of the wrist of the sleeves to measure.

Products with a sleeve "a Raglan" it is recommended for all types of figures, with the exception of people with very narrow and sloping shoulders.

Lesson 29. Building patterns-the foundations of a jacket with sewn in sleeve
Figure 416. Construction drawing sleeves "Raglan"




3. USEFUL TIPS

The use of the Raglan makes it possible to wear the same items the child is 3, 4 and 5 years,

Vymazyvaja sleeve "Raglan" in the children's jacket or coat, you won't think about what the child grows up, and in six months it will be necessary to knit or buy something new.

Add comment

Security code
Refresh