Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

1. After calculating the mid-Smad and his shoulders proceed to the construction drawing. On promerica stand (primerochnoi the Board) set the amount of mid-Smad (peracid) with pins with colored heads.
2. Then in the same way on promerica stand set the amount of shoulder detail.
3. For the most accurate construction patterns band weighting make measurements:
a) weighed and measured slack top model - peracid;
b) weigh and measure the amount of the lower of the SAG Smad or peracid.
4. The next step is to draw the model on fabric (see building).


Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

5. After completing the drawing, we get a curve. It provides all the necessary allowances on the drape and aligns the bottom of the SAG. After checking the correctness of the construction cut out the template

 

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

6. Imposed on Pomeroy stand previously cut pattern out of fabric, observing the middle and beginning of the shoulders of the model, not stretching and not propositiva the middle of the part

 

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

7. The formation of the first pleat starting from the start point of the right shoulder detail, omitting the so-called "cushion" folds down from the eaves line by 10 - 15 cm. This value depends on the depth of the model.

 

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

8. Similarly, observing the depth of the folds (about 8 - 10 cm), it lay at the starting point of the left shoulder

 

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

9. Approaching the crease, and all subsequent, be sure to 2-3 pins that further planting is not dislodged (figure)

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

10. As calculated shoulder, we know the distance between the folds along the line of the cornice (see table "Calculation of leverage"). This distance delayed on the line with chalk or a disappearing marker. It is important to respect this value down to the millimeter, as the difference in distance between the folds can lead to bias of the whole model in General

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

11. Each subsequent fold is formed in the same way. Strictly enforced the same amount of SAG between the folds and the distance between the folds along the line of the cornice

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

12. The depth of each pleat increases 3 - 5 cm. This value depends on topiramate fabrics and length of the model. The stiffer the fabric, the solution tucks deeper

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

13. After laying all the necessary folds choose the most correctly and beautifully laid shoulder detail, and darted formed after laying and cutting out, the mirror is transferred from one side of models to another

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

14. Then stab (very often, 1.5 - 2 cm) pins of the selected shoulder of the model at the eaves line. If the model is asymmetric, then kill and draw both shoulders of the model (figure)

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

15. Chalk or disappearing marker to hold the line of the eaves with an allowance for processing of 1.5 - 2cm line at the middle and shoulder of the model

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

16. Chalk, disappearing marker or pins mark the bottom line of the SAG model (for the chosen half)

 

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

17. Stabbed and marked until the middle of the pattern is removed from primerochnoi Board. Without stretching fabric, and split neotesano shoulder model

18. On the cutting table, departing from the intended line of the eaves of 1-2 cm, cut off the excess seam allowance fabric at planting. Thus the line of treatment details along the eaves
Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

19. Splits shoulder details, we get the depth of each fold (solution tucks.)

 

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

20. For the most accurate and correct laying it is necessary to move the mirror solution tucks with one half part to another. To do this, fold the template in half and cut out exactly the solution tucks. Then transfer the drawn line of the cornice

 

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

21. Align folded in half with the pattern on the lower line of the SAG model,respecting the allowances for processing 1 - 1.5 cm

 

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

22. Pattern with exhausted shoulders and the lower line SAG lay on the dressing stand to check all sizes

 

Manual method of laying or Smad parecida

 

23. Lower cut models are treated with a double lapped seam, seam "American" ("Moscow seam"), or all detail is duplicated lining.
In the model "peracid" in the same way processed and the top sagged details.
24. As a rule, the upper seam allowance along the line of the cornice is treated with Velcro or mounting tape, the so-called "zone"

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