The drawing of long pants, you need the following measurements: circumference of the hips (e.g. 95 cm); waist girth (e.g. 68 cm); overall length (e.g., 97 cm). Latest scoop off the front from the waist to the feet or ankles depending on the fashion.
For greater precision of the drawing, you should use additional measurements: length of pants step; the length of the pants to the floor.
The front half of the pants. Take a sheet of paper the size of 50Х110 see At a distance of 8-10 cm from the top edge draw a horizontal line (figure 553). This will be the waist line.
Perpendicular to this line, departing 10 cm from the right edge paper guide to the vertical length of 30-40 cm (dashed line).
To determine the width of the front halves of the pants to measure the circumference of the hips add 5 cm (95+5=100 cm). Divide this value by four (100:4=25 cm), put the result through the waist from the line side of the cut, draw a line mid-front parallel to the line side of the slice. The front and rear halves of the pants are the same width at the waist line.
The distance to the hip line is determined in the absence of additional measurements. 2/10 take measurements of the circumference of the hips (2/10 from 95, i.e., 19 cm) and add 1.5 cm in the circumference of the hips at least 80 cm seam allowance is 0.5 cm in the circumference 80-95 cm — 1 cm, and the circumference over 95 cm 1.5 cm (1 9+1 , 5=2 0 ,5 cm ).
Put obtained value in the line of mid front and put nadziejko And through which passes a horizontal line of the hips.
To determine the position of the notch In take 1/3 of the previously received value, and defer the segment from A down the line mid front (20,5:3=6.8 cm).
Through nadziejko To draw a horizontal line. Aside from the notch 1 / 20 measurements of the hip (1 / 20 of 95 cm, i.e., to 4.75 cm) and label the resulting nadziejko with the letter S. Connect nadziejko With nadrezkoj A curved line.
At the level of the notch With and check nadziejko D on the line side of the slice. Measure the width of the patterns between nasecki C and D. Divide the distance CD in half and put the letter nadziejko E. Through E draw the vertical line of the bend of the front halves of trousers.
To determine the width of the part at the bottom of head 2 / 10 measurements of the circumference of the hips (2 / 10 from 95 cm, i.e. 19 cm), divide the resulting value on either side of the fold line (equity) and put the points F and L. the Drawing is performed without considering the peculiarities of fashion. The finished drawing can then be modified in accordance with the requirements of fashion.
Perpendicular to the crease line of the pants, draw a line marking the length of the pants to the floor. From this line put up vertically, measure the length of the pants step. If nadechka With placed too high or low, respectively move the entire curved line from the notch With the notch to A.
For holding a line knee put a dot N the middle of the total length of the pants. From this point down aside 1/ 10th of measurements of the total length of the pants and draw a horizontal line with a length of 20-30 cm
The dashed line connect the points F and C, and the point L — to the line side of the slice at the level of the hips.
A-line knee reduce pre the width of the front halves of trousers, 5/ 4cm on each side. When thigh girth less than 80 cm decrease this value by 0.5 cm.
From the bottom draw straight lines up through the knee. Then from the knee to the point guide With a slightly curved line. Connect the line side of the slice with the point D, as shown in figure 553.
Reduce the width of the details on the waist line at 1.25 cm from the side of the slice. Connect the obtained point of the curve line with the line of the hips. If hip circumference less than 80 cm, reduce the width of the details on the waist line by 1 cm
Line the middle of the front is located is different depending on the circumference of the hips. During the hip equal to 80-90 cm, it is separated from the vertical dashed line to the middle of the front at the level of the waist line on 1 cm. in the circumference of hips, equal 95-100 cm by 1.25 cm. in the circumference of the hips equal to 105 cm— 1 cm in the circumference of thighs, close to 110 cm, the mid-line of the front does not move; when thigh girth equal to 115 cm or more, width of detail at the waist increases 1 cm (figure 554). Trousers for children the width of the front halves of the waist should also increase.
These instructions refer to the standard patterns.
To build a tuck on both sides of the line indicating the direction of the grain lines, mark the half of the solution tuck. A tuck can be replaced by a crease. If the tuck to identify right from equity, it is necessary to lay in the side of the cut, if left, by the middle of the front. Specify the desired solution of the tuck (for example, 3 cm).
For children's pants tuck solution should not be less than 2.5 cm Trouser big sizes save the tuck depth equal to 3 cm.
The second tuck build in the middle between the first tuck and the line side of the slice. Its solution depends on the measurements of the circumference of the hips (for example for large size — 2 cm). With the hip between 65 and 90 cm, it is equal to 1.5-2 cm For children's pants are the smallest sizes that do not tuck.
The rear half of the pants. Drawing halves of the pants can be run on the same sheet of paper, and drawing the front half. In this case, use colored pencil.
For plotting of lines of the middle slice, transfer the SV cut left and right from the horizontal (figure 555), dot K and N (the front half of the pants shown by dashed lines). The ridge line of the middle cut down to 1 cm below the line NK.
Point To swipe vertical to the waist line (dashed line), showing the direction of grain lines of the fabric. From it to the right put at the waist of 1.5 cm (1 cm for circumference less than 80 cm) and connect the obtained point with the bottom point of the middle line of the slice curve, which is spaced from point N to 0.6-0.7 cm (solid line).
Line knee extend item, delay up to 1,5 cm on both sides from the contour of the front halves of trousers (1 cm girth of hips less than 80 cm).
Width details the hip line, increase the line side of the side of the slice compared to the front half of the pants on a segment of SV followed by a period M (for example, 4.8 cm). From this point slide up the line parallel to the side cut the front halves of trousers (solid line). The resulting points draw a line between the points F and L on the bottom of the pants.
The stepper cut line of the rear halves of the pants a little shorter than the front half. Don't add missing length, and pull the fabric on this site.
Line grain lines on the rear half of the pants has the same direction as on the front, it also specifies the location of the folds.
When you build the Darts divide half of the pants into three equal parts (figure 556). The length of the recesses 9 to 13 cm (e.g., 13 cm). Basic tuck closer to the line side of the slice (arrow in figure 556). This tuck has a solution of 1.5 cm for thigh girth of 60 cm and 3 cm hip 90 cm
To determine the solution for more tuck in the rear half of the pants measure the width of the patterns at the waist line and subtract the solution made tucks (for example, 37 cm). From the resulting tuck subtract half the measurements of the waist girth (68:2=34 cm; 37-34=3 cm ).
For the female figure with a wide waist extra tuck at the back half of the pants do not. If necessary, expand the waistline by reducing the convexity of the line side of the slice. Extra tuck shown in figure 556, the left. For children's trousers tuck are the same. The excess fabric is collected on the elastic tape is most often in the area between the Darts.
For the female figure with hips 80 cm the solution of this tuck is 1.5 cm, hips 85 cm — 2, see Build templates complete, but it is advisable to perform additional constructions.
Move the drawing, the upper part of the rear halves of the pants with nadrezkoj L and transfer it to nadziejko D drawing of the front half. Connect the two dots dashed line (figure 557). Cut the pattern along this line and extend it, adding a small stretch to the seam (e.g., 3 cm).
Trace the new contours of the patterns, aligning the line of the middle slice.
Pockets. Trouser pockets can be different, as the pockets of the skirts. Burlap (lined) pockets shown in figure 558.
Suit almost all sizes the width of the pocket lining, you can limit the fold line. Trouser small size width lining of the pocket is equal to 9-10 cm; its length (figure nasecki 558 between 1 and 2) is equal to 10-12 cm.
The back half of the pants should be positioned so that the slits crossed the tuck, located at the side of the slice. Pocket features parallel to the waist line. Pocket width is approximately equal to 12 cm Distance from the pocket to the side of the slice 2,5 cm